Monday, 11 July 2011

Off the Beaten Track

The most memorable holidays are certainly ones which are filled with spontaneous moments and out-of-the-way things to do. Without wasting space describing things I'd rather not do, although I have done them all, and watched hundreds of starry eyed holiday makers and tourists do, such as wait in long queues at entrances to castles, theme parks, and the most obvious attractions...the best ways I have spent my breaks are definitely some of these... 



While living in the beautiful village of Prestbury in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, discovering that we were right in the middle of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty came handy. After agonising for weeks about the expense of a Scottish holiday, we finally decided to just walk the Cotswold way. http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold/ 



Cheltenham is roughly in the centre of this 100 mile trail, so that was accommodation sorted. And when walking a trail, there is no added hassle of booking flights/railway journeys. Getting from point A to B was all about figuring out local bus times and fares, and even using the heritage railway.



On the very first stretch of the walk from Chipping Campden to Broadway, we spotted a beautiful cottage once owned by the author Graham Greene, pointed out by very friendly locals. Next we stumbled across a picture perfect Bourton-on-the-Water, a tiny village which is the stuff of dreams. 


It has been two years already and the Husband still gushes about how pretty it was, he seems to have completely forgotten the 25£ we had to dish out as a parking fine while there. Of course when keeping off the beaten track, one has to make allowances for the British weather, and other small hiccups. But overall, every muddy track, every dandelion covered meadow, was worth the effort.

We did go to Scotland eventually. And we did visit all the great Scottish castles and monuments and  Loch Lomond. But just going a little bit out of the way took us to the tiny village of Luss, on the opposite shore of the lake, with beautiful stone cottages and neat rose gardens. 


We did not let the rain spoil our ramble across Dunblane (where Andy Murray hails from), and stepping off the train at the Bridge of Allan brought us to our favourite discovery yet: the Bridge of Allan Brewery, with its cosy, rustic interiors, wooden casks, a log fire, a musty smell, with a feel of Christmas even in spring. 














The brews did not disappoint, with exotic flavours like mango and espresso, even a beer hater like me became a convert that afternoon.




Our latest weekend away has brought us to the coast of Norfolk, with lovely winding country roads, lined with an array of wild summer flowers. The beach at Hunstanton has been the usual touristy fare, with family entertainment and bingo centres.

But of course, we have headed away from it all and rambled on the Norfolk Coast Path (Peddars Way) walking a little under 10 km yesterday on a footpath offering magnificent views of both the coast and the countryside bursting with flowers. http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/peddarsway/text.asp?PageId=2


Although we originally intended to walk up to the RSPB reserve at Titchwell, we stopped before that at Thornham and were amazed at the pretty little surprises tucked away in the British countryside. The village had the loveliest red and white brick/sandstone cottages, and the Orange Tree has definitely been the best pub we have visited so far. We literally witnesses a theatrical unfolding of Agatha Christie's St Mary Mead as local residents thronged outside the watering hole, flushed from the afternoon sun, greeting each other lustily, everyone knowing everyone, except for the Asian couple who would most certainly be the topic of the dinner conversation that evening. What better way to end an exhausting walk than to sip a cool cocktail and dig into the freshest seafood available locally.




We drove to the RSPB Titchwell this morning instead, and the guided tour led by a local volunteer was the most satisfying experience I can ever describe. The moment we stepped into the wooded reserve, alive with a thousand sounds promised this would be paradise for me. And the feeling lasted all the way through the marshes, reeds, masses of sea lavender, right up to the most pristine beach so far. It deserves a mention as it had miles of soft sand stretching in all directions, and not a soul but for a ship in the distance and a couple of devoted birdwatchers.The reward was the sighting of a total of 46 species, including cousins of warblers, swallows, swifts, moorhens and egrets that I have known in India. 

I must mention the Wells-next-the-Sea has proved a disappointment, no matter how much we looked this much talked about seaside resort had little to offer in terms of  a decent eat out. One would think a fishing village would serve some good local fare! And it was not half as eye worthy as we had imagined it to be, but that is what you get for expecting too much. The nicest things certainly come along when you are not looking for them. 

All in all, the sun has shone gloriously this weekend and the heady mix of sea air, and warm summery fragrances (along with the inevitable tan) is bound to stay with us for us a while.